Count on this Russian

Dependable Stroganoff is always a crowd-pleaser
JERRY ANNE DI VECCHIO

Beef Stroganoff

Once upon a time, according to the various Russian-authored cookbooks in my library, there was a Count Stroganoff who dabbled in the arts of the table. His legacy is this timeless dish bearing his name. It's recorded that he prepared it in front of guests, doubtless with an army of servants to lend a hand.

Beef stroganoff, however, is uncomplicated enough to execute without a staff. Served in a ring of pasta, it makes a handsome main dish for a party.